By Paul Chimera
In-Focus Columnist and Feature Writer

It’s hard to top how Richard Eliah, general manager of Taffy’s Charbroiled Hot Dogs, describes the third-generation-owned, oldest restaurant in Orchard Park: “There’s a quirkiness about the joint! You can’t compare it to anything else, to be honest.”

I’ll have mine with mustard, ketchup, onions – and extra quirky!

That’s the recipe for success that Taffy’s has enjoyed since Richard’s late father, Toufic, started the business in 1949. People changed his Lebanese name to Taffy as a nickname, and it stuck to the business like ketchup to the fresh-cut potatoes that go into what some consider the best French fries in Western New York.

Rich’s mother, Nellie, 91, is still owner of the joint (the term is used affectionately, just as Rich uses it), and still maintains an occasional presence at the 3261 Orchard Park Road location, wiping trays and mingling with long-time customers.

The fries, dogs and burgers are obvious mainstays of their summer eating fare. But another big draw is the nearly obsessive variety of shakes – more than 112 from which to choose – and, yes, some are quirky.

You can get all the traditional ones, of course. But how about Bananas Foster. Or Big Kahuna (pineapple, orange, and coconut). Then there’s one actually known as Peanut Butter & Jam. The exotic Bamma Slamma (peach, raspberry, and amaretto). And a mango and bananas combination whose name is just, well, quirky: Monkey Love.

A reporter arriving early for an appointment with Mr. Eliah jotted down some observations about the overall look and feel of the place. “Quirky” again seems to be the operative adjective – all good, of course.

From the shopping center view behind the place, Taffy’s, with its wooden siding and smoke stacks, stands out shack-like among the modern strip mall structures. It seems out of place, which is part of its appeal. Its simple, friendly, old-style ambiance and spirit are increasingly rare today. That’s what people love about it.

“Beware of attack chef!”

Outside, above a neon Open sign, is another sign that warns, “Beware of attack chef!” The patio, put up about 12 years ago and greatly expanding what had been only a small inside eating area, features a sea of double-decker canopied glider seats and shiny chrome tables. Audio speakers in the shape of garden rocks play – at reasonable volume – great oldies songs that accord well with the Taffy’s look and feel. Up against the outside front wall is the shakes board, detailing the 112 or so shake varieties that might be the most extensive on the planet.

Step inside Taffy’s and a chalkboard menu oversees six red vinyl-covered stools that hug the counter. Coffee mugs, which customers themselves bring in and ask for by name, hang overhead, beneath the knotty pine ceiling, and the menu goes beyond dogs and burgers to accommodate those preferring veggie burgers, turkey burgers, fried zucchini and mushrooms, sweet fries, hoagies and loads more.

“There’s not a hot dog stand in the city that can top that extensive a menu,” Eliah proudly declares. His dedicated efforts to keep Taffy’s humming are joined by Susan Ziegler, manager, who’s been with Taffy’s for 28 years; Piper Ware, another manager, on board for 20 years; and Dan Pikula, a 13-year manager. Eliah believes such stability plays out well with customers, who appreciate the familiar faces and consistency of food and personal (“John, your fries are up!”) service.

Eliah’s 11-year-old niece Olivia also helps out at times, and this reporter enjoyed attentive service from Caitlin and Courtni, who were working grill duty – one just graduated from high school, the other a college student. Manager Ziegler says she’s enjoyed observing the maturity level of the young workers over the years. “It’s kind of like a family thing,” she and Eliah both agree.

7-foot live alligator

Taffy’s, on the inside, is small. Very small. In addition to the aforementioned stools, six black & white checkered or marbleized top tables were spotted. A unisex bathroom door reads Guys-Dolls, and – in addition to nostalgic photos on the wall showing the restaurant from years past – is a large photo montage from Taffy’s 50th anniversary bash of 1999, which drew an estimated 4,000 people.

Spotted in the snap shots were local TV personalities Kevin O’Connell and Scott Levin; former Erie County Executive Dennis Gorski; and a 7-foot live alligator someone had brought, who quickly became the life of the party. “It was out of control!” remembers affable manager Sue Ziegler.

That’s Taffy’s quirkiness, rearing its head again. Eliah notes that the place – with its spacious patio – is ideal for those in wheelchairs, with stroller-bound kids in tow, or even oddities like the time a blue grass band just showed up and started playing. Eliah and his crew “paid” them in milk shakes.

“It’s a nice place to sit outside, with the gliders and the flowers,” says Eliah. “You get called by name here, you’re not just a number. When they have a 50-year reunion, they all want to come here. A lot of people grew up with Taffy’s. There are customers of mine coming here for 50 years.”

One loyal customer, Ray Zielinski, says he’s been coming to Taffy’s for upwards of 40 years, and admits that the pretty college girls flipping the burgers are a draw for him. “It keeps my spirits up, and makes the food go down better,” he states, only half jokingly. He’s also an example of something unique at Taffy’s: the opportunity to customize your food.

It’s important to heed karma

Zielinski goes for what he’s dubbed a Roady Doddie – a pork sandwich on a Costanzo roll, with hot peppers, provolone cheese and a special Taffy’s sauce. Since the days he used to arrive here in his ’61 Corvette, he’s an example of the customer loyalty and good-natured character of Taffy’s patrons. Even if one customer, Eliah reports, always asks for frozen fries, despite the restaurant’s pride in fresh ingredients! The guy’s request is a little quirky, which is to say it fits right in.

“It would be bad karma to change things,” says Eliah, pointing up the wisdom of keeping things virtually unchanged since Taffy’s opened its doors nearly 60 years ago. “What makes your city are things like this.”

And what can make or break the profit & loss statement, Eliah concedes, is the weather. The day After 50 News dropped by, it was unseasonably cool and windy, more October-like than mid-June. Customer traffic was on the light side. But Eliah jokes about Mother Nature, suggesting he might say to anyone waiting in a long food line during great weather: “Hey, if you don’t want to wait in line, why don’t you come here on a rainy day?”

Weather permitting, Taffy’s (675-0264) is open every day, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. The season ends for them by the end of November. Stop in while the dogs are sizzlin’ – and quirky.

Paul Chimera is a freelance journalist, marketing writer, and adjunct professor of media writing at Daemen College. He can be reached for writing and editing projects at: chimera1@verizon.net.